波浪追算に基づく日本海沿岸での波候の推定

概要

論文の詳細を見る
A wave hindcast system which consists of a wind estimation model and a wave estimation model is applied to compute wave characteristics over two years every one hour at 14 selected points along the coast of the Japan Sea. The wind estimation is done by spatial interpolation onto a regular grid of atmospheric pressure data observed at irregularly distributed points surrounding the sea area and the application of the Bijvoet wind model. The deep water wave model belonging to a decoupled propagation model traces the change of directional spectrum along a straight wave ray of each component focusing a hindcast point. Close agreement between computations and observations for time variation of significant waves and wave directions as well as their long term wave climate verifies the validity of the wave hindcast system. In addition, wave climate at two points where long term wave data have not been obtained is evaluated with use of the system.
日本自然災害学会の論文
1990-12-31