任意汀線形状海岸を対象としたクノイド波理論に基づく海浜流の数値モデル

概要

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In this paper, the authors's numerical model of nearshore currents using a cnoidal wave theory for the estimation of wave characteristics is extended to be applicable to coastal areas with a complicated shoreline. For this purpose, wave transformation is computed by making use of a characteristic method following the wave rays instead of the finite difference scheme used in the previous model. First, wave height variation and longshore current profile on a uniformly sloping beach computed by both the models are shown to be in good agreement. Next, the model is applied to the nearshore current computation on model topographies with a complicated shoreline such as a semi-circular bay, convex cape and arbitrarily-curved bay. The comparison of the resulting nearshore current patterns with those of the authors's model using the small amplitude wave theory reveals their gross similarity and a slight difference concerning the positions of breaker line and circulation cell center, and meandering intensity of longshore currents.
日本自然災害学会の論文
1988-06-30