流れ, 水深および入射波の非定常変化を考慮した不規則波の変形計算法

概要

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This paper proposes a numerical model for the refraction computation of directional spectra due to time-varying currents, water depth and incident waves. It is a generalization of the previous models using a backward wave ray tracing technique as the computational scheme in case of steady input conditions. The model is applied to the computation of wave refraction caused by steady onedimensional currents on a uniformly sloping beach and the validity is confirmed in comparison with the theoretical result. Then a similar computation is carried out in the case of time-varying currents to investigate the effect of time-dependency on wave transformation. Moreover, a pseudo-periodic variation of wave heights observed at the Naruto Strait with strong tidal currents is shown to be explainable qualitatively by the present model.
日本自然災害学会の論文
1988-03-01