傾斜海浜上でのソリトン変形に及ぼす風の影響

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Design waves for near-shore structures are the representatives of shallow water waves in strong wind, and wind stresses acting on the wave surface have significant effects on the changes in hydraulic properties of the waves, such as the breaking point and wave height.To clarify the wind effects on soliton evolution, a numerical symulation is used based on the shallow water wave equation with perturbed terms (Perturbed Korteweg-de Vries equation), derived under the assumption of a equilibrium state between the nonlinearity and dispersion of waves, wind stresses, bottom friction, and viscous effects of water. The structure of soliton profiles and changes in breaking characteristics are, in particular. investigated in detail, comparing with the asymptotic solution by the inverse scattering theory.The significant evolution of the soliton, the rise of the water level (plateau) and the following tail, is produced by the shoaling and wind effects, and this evolution occurrs after the "soliton time". So the amplification factor of soliton height is directly subject to the scale of plateau, which becomes great in the case of wave propagation on steep slopes. It is also shown that the wind stresses are effective on the soliton with great amplitude on small slopes and that the soliton, as the results. breaks rather on the off-shore side than breaking points of no wind.
琉球大学工学部の論文