斜面上での砕波の質量輸送
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概要
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Breaking waves of spilling-type are generated on a mild slope under the condition that the mass transport accompanied by the wave propagation is not restrained by the end wall of wave tank. Characteristics of the wave shoaling, vertical distributions of mass transport velocity, and mass flux are experimentally investigated with comparison of the theoretical estimation based on the law of the conservation of energy flux.There exist the mass transport in the direction of the wave propagation. It extends all over the whole depth in the case of the wave shoaling on a slope as that of uniform, progressive waves on water of constat depth. Vertical distributions of the mass transport velocity in the region of the deeper depth coincide with the theoretical ones. It is noted that, if the water depth becomes shallower, such as the region near-by breaking points, water particle velocities near the water surface become extremly larger values than those near the bottom.Changes in the dimensionless total mass flux, and so called Stokes' drift with dimensionless wave periods, have a nearly same tendency as the theoretical estimations. It can be expected by the theory that the mass flux at the just breaking paints give a maximum value at the dimensionless wave period nearly equal to ten. The experimental values of mass flux agree well with the theoretical ones in the deeper region, but the former takes larger values of about thirty percent than the latter at breaking points. It is concluded, however, that the mass flux can roughly be estimated by the law of the conservation of energy flux.According to the wave shoaling, experimental results of the hight and lenght of breaking waves give reasonable agreements with the theoretical estimation, but essential problems such as the occurrence of secondary waves, its developing processes, and asymmetric deformation of wave profiles are still left unclarified due to the non-Unearity of waves on a slope.
- 琉球大学工学部の論文
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