バリ島サヌール海岸における波浪特性

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Beach erosion is a major problem at coral beaches in Bali, Indonesia, because of the changes in natural environment and utilization of coastal areas. Survey of sea waves, as joint research works between Japan and Indonesia, was carried out at Sanur beach in Bali, to know what kinds of waves are effective for beach processes. Features of sea waves and their statistic properties, such as shape moduli of the probability density function and the correlation coefficient between wave heights and periods, are investigated by using the data measured. The results are summarized as follows:General features;(1) At Sanur beach the wave direction is unchanged throughout the year, and waves in the dry season (June to August) govern the coastal process and sand movement because of higher wave heights and longer wave periods rather than that in the wet season (December to February).(2) Swell with the period of about 15 seconds, though dissipated by wave breaking at the top of the coral reef, is significant among wave components penetrating onto Sanur beach.Wave statistic properties;(1) Both in and out the coral reef at high tidal level of water, the probability density function for wave heights is described with the Rayleigh distribution.(2) The relations among the shape modulus for wave periods, the correlation coefficient between wave heights and periods, and the spectral width parameter agree, for incident waves, with the results of Goda (1970) and Kimura (1978). Because of wave breaking, however, the shape modulus for wave periods on the coral flat takes smaller values than that for non-breaking waves, and the spectral width becomes wide.(3) The correlation coefficient between wave heights and periods increases with respect to the spectral width and, as it tends to unity, the shape modulus for wave periods decreases down to 2.
1995-03-31

バリ島サヌール海岸における波浪特性

スポンサーリンク

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