波浪統計--低次の非線形性を有する純確率模型と風洞実験

概要

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Statistics of waveheights is investigated in relation to freak waves. First, numerical simulation was made with a purely stochastic model that takes into account only low-order (rather artificial) nonlinearity of water waves. The model tends to yield abnormally large waveheights more frequently than the Rayleigh distribution predicts, in qualitative agreement with recent many papers. The result suggests the mechanism of frequent appearance of freak waves may be simple. Then, real wind-waves in a wind-flume were measured for a long time under the same wind condition. The distribution of waveheights thus obtained was deviated significantly from both the classical Rayleigh distribution and that due to the simulation with the stochastic model. The result shows that wind alters the statistics of water waves significantly, at least in the wind-flume.
九州大学大学院総合理工学府,Interdisciplinary Graduate School of Engineering Sciences, Kyushu Universityの論文