海洋観測ステーションによる沿岸波浪の方向スペクトルの計測

概要

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Ocean waves have been observed with a wave height meter array and a three component current meter suspended from an ocean research platform. Directional spectra of measured waves are determined using the Maximum Likelyhood Method. The results obtained with these two sets of instruments were compared and investigations revealed the following ; (a) measured values of the characteristics regarding the angular spreading of wave energy obtained with the wave height meter array and three-component current meter showed good agreement. (b) time series of wind speed, significant wave height and spreading parameter S_<max&glt; at the peak frequency were in good mutual relation, and the value of S_<max&glt; may be estimated practically from the significant wave height. (c) representation of directional function due to Mitsuyasu et al., which was developed on the basis of the well developed wave data in mid-ocean, are in good agreement with that determined here from wave data collected near the coast and contained wide range of the development stage.
社団法人日本船舶海洋工学会の論文