海況階級の相関係数から分析されるうねりと風浪の卓越方位の偏角 : 沿岸海洋波の生成理論(その37)

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Average value of correlation factor is (ab)/2 cosψ, where a and b are each amplitude and ψ is phase difference. When both variations are pure sinusoidal, average of |a,b| to {a^2,b^2}^<1/2> must be 2/π÷1/√<2>=0.9003, but owing to the general character of composed irregular waves, above-cited values are 0.9762〜0.4166 for seas, and 1.0721〜0.0000 for swells. Concerning to cosψ, average value is 0.6450, and at 0.8563 the maximum frequency occures. If sea and swell are quite independent with each other, cosψ→0 on the ocean far apart from the center of storm. At the eye-wall, cosψ→1 where sea and swell arize simultaneously. Amid the mixed area outside of eye-wall, the relation between ab/2 and cosψ seems to be proportional, which might tells us the fact that the energh of seas contributes to the growth of swells.
社団法人日本船舶海洋工学会の論文
1982-03-03