離岸潜堤背後の波と循環流について

概要

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A hydraulic model experiment was carried out in a wave tank in order to elucidate the mechanism of nearshore circulation which was induced by the offshore submerged breakwater. The observed distribution of the wave height, the mean water level (MWL) and the radiation stress (RS) component are diagramatically shown and the mechanism of current generation is discussed.The magnitude of the RS gradient near the breaker line is larger than that ofthe MWL gradient outside the sheltered area behind the breakwater. However, the former is smaller than the latter in the sheltered area. The circulation is induced behind the breakwater so as to compensate this difference. Because the current induces the bottom shear stress which balances with forces due to gradients of the RS and the MWL.Authors also evaluate the solenoidal component of the RS gradient vector on some assumptions and suggest that the component is approximately balanced by the bottom frictional stress.
日本水産學會の論文