羽尺物による婦人用あわせ羽織の裁ち方について

概要

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The method of cutting cloth for Japanese Haori depends on the size of cloth, the length of Haori, the presence of gore ("Machi") and so on. Two kinds of Japanese cloth for dress, such as "Kijakumono" for Kimono and "Hajakumono" for Haori, can be used for making Haori. The former has enough size for Haori with "Machi" but the latter does not, and some special design is needed for cutting it. We investigated the problem from literatures and from the inquiries of 193 students who learned the Japanese dressmaking in our collage during these 6 years (from 1970 to 1975). In the consequence of our investigations about the method of cutting "Hajakumono", following two methods were available: (1) Cutting neck part ("Eri") and sleeve-band ("Sodeguchi") out from the space for front part ("Maemigoro") and gore. (2) Cutting sleeve-band and gore out from the space for front part, and cutting 36 cm-width space ("Namihabadachi") for neck part. It is recommended that the latter method is first tried, and then the former must be adopted if the size of cloth was not enough.
跡見学園女子大学短期大学部の論文