On the Characteristics of Frequency Spectra for Wind Waves
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概要
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Characteristics of frequency spectra of gravity waves driven by wind are investigated by using the data measured at Osaka Bay and 13 points along Japanese coasts. The main results are as follows : (1) The slope of wind wave spectra at high frequency region is approximated by a function of the -4th power. (2) In growth stage, the energy density of wind wave spectra is concentrated near peak frequency band. As the fetch increases, the spectra gradually approach fully developed form such as Pierson-Moskowitz spectrum. (3) The new standard spectrum form of wind waves based on JONSWAP spectrum is obtaind. The spectrum can be applied to wind waves in both deep and shallow water sea. The spectrum function can be estimated by significant wave height and period, and agreement with measured spectrum is very well.
- 東海大学の論文
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