Silhouette Shapes of Flared Skirts. Part 1: Influence of Pattern Hem Length and Fabric Bending Length on Outward Hem Width.:Part 1 : Influence of Pattern Hem Length and Fabric Bending Length on Outward Hem Width

概要

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The form of flared skirts is influenced by many factors : the shape of the pattern, the mechanical properties of the fabric, the sewing conditions, the figure of the wearer, and so on. There are many reports concerning the relation between these factors and the forms of flared skirts, but this is the first study about the silhouette which links both the pattern hem length and the characteristics of various fabrics. In this report, I clarify the influence of the pattern hem length and the mechanical properties of fabric on the forms of flared skirts, especially on outward hem width. The experimental conditions are as follows : (1) The skirt length is 50cm. (2) The concentric circle method is used for drafting the skirt's pattern. (3) Skirts are made using two gore panels. The results are as follows; (1) The influence of the pattern hem length on the outward hem width can be clarified using two parameters : the number of nodes and amplitude of drape. (2) Experimental results have yielded an equation that can predict the outward hem width from the bending length and the pattern hem length. (3) An example based on the above results is given to show how the pattern hem length can be calculated from the outward hem width taken from a fashion drawing.
社団法人日本繊維機械学会の論文