AM06-18-003 砕波帯内におけるSurface Rollerの力学的特性(沿岸域の流体力学(1),一般講演)

概要

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This paper investigates dynamic characteristics of surface rollers inside the surf zone. We first develop a conceptual model for prediction of surface roller evolution associated with wave breaking. The model is based on simple energy balance equations that account for energy transport from broken waves to surface rollers and energy dissipation inside the surface roller itself. The second-order properties of the surface roller, such as mass transport and momentum forces, are then determined as functions of time-averaged surface roller energy. The model is then applied to experimental cases, in which periodic or random waves are normally or obliquely incident on long-straight beaches with uniform slopes or with barred profiles. Through the model application, we investigate dynamic impacts of the surface roller on various hydrodynamic characteristics especially inside the surf zone.
日本流体力学会の論文
2006-09-05