ビーチ・カスプの波長に関する予測式

概要

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Using the results of the present author's laboratory experiments and existing data on beach cusps, the predictive equation of cusp spacing was derived from dimensional analysis. The cusp spacing, λ , which is defined as the length between the neighboring horns, was found to be expressed by: λ = 0.1D_*^<0.17>tan α^<0.26>H^<0.25>(gT^2)^<0.75> where H is the breaker height, T is the wave period, D_* is the dimensionless sediment size, tan α is the initial beach slope, and g is the acceleration due to gravity. The above is also supported from the existing data on cusps in the field.
日本地形学連合の論文
2003-10-25