裾礁型リーフ海浜における汀線砕波波高 : 沖縄島読谷海岸における観測結果

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The Yomitan coast in Okinawa Island, Japan, has little regional difference in input offshore wave characteristics, but has large difference in the width of a fringing reef. To investigate the relationship between the shore break height (the height of final breaking waves near the shoreline), the reef width and the deep water wave height, field investigations were conducted at four beaches on the Yomitan coast. The shore break height, H_b^*, was found to increase with increasing the deep water wave height, H_0, and to decrease with increasing the reef width, R_w. Data analysis showed that H_b^* may be expressed by: H_b^*/H_0=0.47(h/R_w)^<0.2>(H_0/gT^2)^<-0.25>-0.26, where T is the wave period, h is the water depth at the offshore edge of fringing reef, g is the acceleration due to gravity.
2009-07-25