BGモデルによるリズミックな砂嘴群と尖角岬群の不安定的発達予測

概要

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The shoreline evolution caused by the high-angle wave instability defined by Ashton et al. was numerically solved using the BG model proposed by Serizawa et al. The BG model was further improved using the energy dissipation rate, which was calculated from the planar distribution of wave field, as the power of sand transport flux. The development of sand spits and cuspate forelands was predicted under the oblique wave incidence that the angle between the direction normal to the shoreline and wave direction becomes larger than 45°, given an infinitesimal perturbation on the initial topography. In this model, not only the shoreline configuration but also three-dimensional topographic changes around the sand spits and cuspate forelands can be predicted. The shoreline evolution caused by the high-angle wave instability was successfully solved by the present model.
日本地形学連合の論文
2012-01-25