人工リーフ設置による長周期波の新たな発生

概要

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Long period oscillations of sea water, which are generated by incoming wave groups, have been investigated by a numerical method, for the two cases of flat beach with or without an artificial reef. For the flat beachs, there are no long period waves on the beach as expected, except for the long waves existing as the standing waves resulted by reflected wave from the shore, uniformly distributed along the shore line. On the other hand, the long period waves are trapped on the reef or between the shore line and the reef front, widely exerted in frequency by incoming wave groups, the wave heights of the long period waves are larger than that for the flat beach without artificial structures. For the construction of the artificial reef on natural beachs, it is necessary to take into account the existing of long period waves, which is newly exerted on the beach due to the interaction effects between the artificial reefs and the incoming wave groups, may influence coastal phenomena such as the wave overtopping, run-up and sediment transport.
琉球大学工学部の論文