護岸上を越波する段波の反射率と波力に関する研究－サーフビートなど長周期波の反射率と波力の算定式－

概要

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Sea walls are usually designed only for protection against storm waves, with no account being taken of the effect of long waves, e.g. Tsunamis or Bore-like surf beats. The estimation of the effectiveness of sea walls as protection against long waves is very important in the field of coastal countermeasures, particularly on coral reef coasts, where long waves can cause abnormally high rises in water levels. The establishment of estimation methods for wave forces, i.e. summing up the effect of long and short wave forces, has a special significance for coastal engineers working on reef coasts. There is as yet no formula for the estimation of either the force or reflection of strong non-linear long waves. In this study, we offer empirical calculation formulae for wave forces and wave reflections. The wave force formula has been derived from hydrostatic wave pressure, whilst the wave reflection coefficient was derived from the energy flux conservation rule.
琉球大学工学部の論文