胴部体表面形態からみた婦人服パターンの構成に関する研究(第2報) : 前胴部の密着衣服原型と平面展開図の比較

概要

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Fifty tight-fitting patterns of the front bodice (T) were made by draping on the replicas of female trunks using sheeting. The front surface of each replica was divided into ten blocks by standard lines, and the blocks were traced. The gap lengths on each side of the blocks of T were compared with those of the front surface development patterns (D) made from the same replicas. The gap lengths of T were calculated by subtracting the side lengths of the body surfaces (B) from those of T; and the gap lengths of D were measured on the side of D. On T, most of the gaps were positive, as were those on D, showing that the side lengths of blocks on T were longer than those of B. However, on the sides of the center front and the front shoulder blocks of T covering the concave parts of the trunk, the gaps were negative. Therefore, the area of the center front blocks of T was smaller than that of D; and the curvature of the shoulder lines of T was more gradual than that of D. In order to construct a T, which fitted each individual without draping but by drafting, it was necessary to add positive and negative gap lengths to the side lengths of blocks on B Which conformed to the body's concave and convex surfaces.
1996-04-15