ソグディアナにおける絹織物の使用と生産
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概要
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The present article presents a discussion on the silk fabrics which were used and produced in Sogdiana. The Sogdians were not only traders, but also users of Chinese and Persian brocades. On Sogdian mural paintings we can see Sogdians with clothes made of polychrome silks (_??_jin). At the same time the Sogdians were producers of brocade, and it is suggested here that one group of that kind of textiles unearthed in Turfan was manufactured in Sogdiana. In this article the so-called “Zandaniji” silks are not mentioned, because their identification with actual textiles is problematic.The Sogdian wall paintings from Pendzhikent, Afrasiab and Varakhsha show a series of patterned textiles which became popular there from the 6th to the first half of the 8th centuries (Fig. 1-2). In the 6th and 7th centuries textiles were patterned with small ornaments. From the second half of the 7th century large ornaments came into fashion, and in the Afrasiab mural, datable from around 660, the costumes are filled with Sasanian patterns (animal motifs encircled in pearl roundels). Chinese damask (_??_ ling) and Tang rosette silks (_??__??__??__??__??_ bao xiang hua wen jin) appear in the paintings of the early 8th century. In the murals from the middle of the 8th century animal motifs in medallions are no longer to be seen and are replacecd by flowers (Marshak 2001).In two cases it is possible to determine the place of origin of the textiles depicted on murals. Firstly, as monochrome damask and Tang rosette silks are specific products of China, those depicted on the murals are surely Chinese. Secondly, studying the textile motifs in the Afrasiab painting (Fig. 2, Left), M. Mode had identified them as Sasanian textiles. In his opinion, Senmurv (mythical creature), which is one of the animals represented on brocades in the Afrasiab mural, is a motif specific to Sasanian art. When comparable animals are depicted in Sogdian art (wall paintings and silver vessels) they are not the Senmurv, but winged camels or winged lions. The brocades with various animal motifs on the Afrasiab painting have an unity, and all of them are undoubtedly Sasanian.
- 社団法人 日本オリエント学会の論文