AM06-KN-001 波浪の観測・解析・予測における方向スペクトル(特別講演1)
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概要
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The fundamental properties of sea waves are measured by directional wave spectra which express the distribution of wave energy as a function of wave frequency and wave propagation direction. It is well-known that the basic equation of wave forecasting itself is described with respect to time-spatial variation of directional spectrum. In addition, wave transformations due to diffraction, refraction, and reflection are also strongly influenced by the directional spectral characteristics. Therefore, precise estimation of these characteristics is an essential step in the initial planning and design stages for the construction of coastal and offshore structures. Much research has been directed at measuring and estimating directional spectra with various techniques. Accordingly, much progress has been made in numerical wave forecasting. This paper introduces some recent progress of the research related to directional spectra in ocean wave measurement, analysis, and forecast.
- 日本流体力学会の論文
- 2006-09-05