絹素材研究 : 上州座繰りと在来製糸技術
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概要
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Silk fabrics consist of the thread making, dying techniques, weaving techniques and the will of creators. The contents are firstly imaged visually then it will be explained using language. According the clear conception one can select the materials and techniques to make silk fabrics integrally. Fabrics are results of the materials, tools and techniques. The material, silk threads support the whole expression and processes of the making cloth accepting aims based on its characteristics. This report deals with historical changes in the silk-reeling techniques found in the structure of the Joshu Zakuriki, hand-operated silk-reeling instruments used in northern Kanto area from the Edo to the Meiji period. Although they had been used under the same name for centuries the structure was changed sometime by some people. So it is necessary to understand the differences between silk-reeling techniques before and after the modernization comparing the texts and fabrics, then the practical techniques of producing the silk materials are examined as it is an important element for making silk fabrics. Opening port in 1859 changed very much the traditional silk-reeling techniques in Japan. Mainly the steam-powered silk-reeling machines imported from European countries affected it completely. There are some records from this point of view. In 1874 Mr. Sabro Tachi published a book on a new silk-reeling method and explained to improve the traditional silk-reeling instrument attaching two pulleys named 'Migaki yoriki'. Then in 1908 Mr. Toru Mitani suggested to improve the techniques of making the thread for silk pongee attaching a pulley in his book on the spinning method of waste silk. The aim of both improvements was to suit the demands in European countries. The problem was especially the combining of the threads then the shape of cross section of the threads came to be round after improvements called yorikake, twisting. From the view point of the texture of silk, silk fabrics made before modernization in Japan has not been always made by threads with round shape in cross section. Old and varied silk fabrics were often made by flat threads that had not been twisted. This is a typical characteristic of the traditional silk-reeling techniques that cooperates closely the aesthetic expression of the cloth. Reconstruction of flat silk threads using a hand-operated wooden reeling instrument could help to express the original texture of the cloth before modernization. Basic combinations of the warp and weft threads of the silk fabrics are as follows : both raw silk as warp and weft, raw silk as warp and degummed silk as weft, degummed silk as warp and raw silk as weft and both degummed silk as warp and weft. Kinds of silkworm, conservation methods of cocoons and also the reeling techniques are important factors to make various textures. Producing silk threads from cocoons using instruments is not a spontaneous action. We have to realize that it is absolutely an artificial and intensive work which demands the aim of making.
- 2007-03-31