傾斜海浜上における砕波帯内定常流速の鉛直分布に関する理論的研究(VIII)

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The undertow, which is induced by the breakers in a surf zone, is a kind of pronounced bottom current in the seawards direction from the shoreline. This strong return flow often causes the disastrous erosion of beaches in surf zones. So far, many researchers have made more efforts to elucidate the characteristics of the vertical distribution of undertow both experimentally and theoretically. However, the satisfactory theoretical description for its vertical distribution has not been established yet. The purpose of the present paper,the 8th report with respect to these problems is to establish the better theoretical predictions for the vertical distribution of undertow inside a surf zone by improving that of the previous paper(2004). The analytical procedure, therefore, is almost the same as that of the previous paper(2004), except the assumption that the two surface boundary conditions could be employed inside a surf zone, in which one is shown by the water surface steady flow in proportion to the wave celerity, and the other is by the water surface mean vorticity generated by large scale eddies. These complicated calculations result in obtaining the system of equations with seven values different from the previous paper(2004) and then a theoretical prediction for the vertical distribution of the undertow is shown by solving these equations. As a result, it is found that the present theoretical results are in much better agreement with the experimental ones rather than those of the previous paper.
大阪府立工業高等専門学校の論文
2005-07-30

著者

平山秀夫
総合工学システム学科環境都市システムコース

傾斜海浜上における砕波帯内定常流速の鉛直分布に関する理論的研究(VIII)

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