フレアースカートの形態に及ぼす布の力学的特性および接ぎ枚数の影響

概要

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The purpose of this study is to clarify quantitatively the effects of the number of gore panels, the mechanical properties of fabrics and those of fabrics with seams on the silhouettes of flared skirts. Different kinds of fabrics, including Shingousen with high drapability, were used. As the number of gore panels in the skirt increases, the angle between the hemline and the sideline of the skirt (a) and the number of nodes (n) increases, and the average value of the height of the nodes (h) decreases. Also, the a values of skirts where the center of the pattern is in a bias direction is larger than the a values obtained when the center of the pattern is in a warp direction. Thus, the silhouettes of flared skirts can be characterized by using the a value. Furthermore, the shape parameter (a) is influenced by the mechanical parameters such as √3ltBS/Wgt and √^3ltSS/Wgt, obtained from fabrics both with and without seam lines. The flared skirts made with fabrics having low bending and shear stiffness caused rolls at the hemline. This may be the reason why a increased, but n and h decreased as the number of seams increased. By using the residual regression method, a can be accurately estimated using such parameters as the bending stiffnesses of √^3ltBS/Wgt and √^3ltBS_S/2Wgt, and the shear stiffnesses of √^3ltSS/Wgt and √^3ltSS_S/2Wgt, obtained from both seamed and seamless fabrics.
社団法人日本家政学会の論文
1995-07-15