Selective Adsorption of Fatty Acids for the Prevention of Foundation Makeup Deterioration.
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概要
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Deterioration of applied makeup remains a serious concern for the busy modern woman, but little research has been published on this topic. Currently available "long-lasting" makeups do not perform satisfactorily, and a different approach is needed. Many forms of makeup film deterioration exist; our international survey of makeup users identified shiny spot formation following foundation application to be the problem most frequently complained of. Our goal was to identify those factors responsible for optical degradation and develop an effective means of countering this phenomenon. Our research confirmed that the secretion of sebum plays a key role in shiny spot formation. We studied the components of sebum causing optical degradation, and identified particular unsaturated free fatty acid (FA) as the main culprits. By lowering the melting point of sebum, unsaturated free FA caused wetting of the makeup substrate, altering its optical properties, leading to the formation of shiny spots. Understanding of the basic cause of optical degradation of the makeup film enabled us to design a new compound which can selectively adsorb specific FA. By chemically modifying the structure of certain clay minerals, we developed unique interlayered compounds having precisely controlled spacing of the silicate layers of the clay and selective adsorption properties. One compound we developed consists of zinc oxide precursor loaded in alumina pillar interlayered clay (ZA-pilc). In vitro and in vivo testing on powder foundations incorporating ZA-pilc proved that the compound was remarkably effective in suppressing optical degradation, prolonging the life time of makeup in actual usage conditions. Besides preventing optical degradation of makeup film, incorporation of ZA-pilc in cosmetic formulations may offer an additional benefit of reducing acne formation through selective adsorption of FA. Our experimental results indicate that ZA-pilc suppresses comedo formation in the ear of rabbits, suggesting the possibility of application in anti-acne preparations.
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