Optical Properties of Stratum Corneum and Development of Natural-looking Makeups.
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概要
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In spite of the popularity of cosmetics, many users are unhappy with "artificial look" created by commercial makeups. Our investigation reveals that goniometric optical properties of the skin are very important in determining the appearance of the skin; whether it is regarded beautiful, not beautiful or artificially beautiful. Specifically, the value of the spectral ratio, that is, the spectral reflectance Ratio of Acute incident angle/acute reflection angle to Obtuse incident angle/obtuse reflection angle (RAO) was found to be a key parameter in determining the differences. RAO is the spectral ratio measured when the light incidence angle and receiving angle are nearly parallel to the surface and when the angles are nearly vertical to the surface. Maximum RAO of bare skin ranges from 2.5 to 14.0, but only when the value is between 4.3 and 6.5, the skin appears beautiful. Application of makeups on bare skin lowers the value from 0.8 to 3.0 range, creating "artificial" look.Furthermore, the semi-transparent nature of stratum corneum was found important in contributing to the "natural look" of the bare skin. To develop natural-look makeups, we prepared several novel complex pigments, consisting of plate-like, high refractive-index (1.9 to 2.6) pigments covered with a low refractive-index (1.3 to 1.6) substance. Using these optically-modified complex pigments, we formulated a series of unique makeups, named "Optically Simulated Dermal (OSD) Makeups". Panel tests confirmed that OSD makeups allowed the users to look far more natural and less artificial than conventional makeups. Optical measurements also confirmed the increased RAO values when the subjects used OSD makeups instead of conventional makeups. In addition to makeup applications, the novel complex pigments without color were found very useful as an additive in the skin creams to improve the appearance of the skin.
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