堡礁状REEFによる波の反射率と通過率
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概要
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Most islands in OKINAWA are surrounded by coral reef beaches, which have the typical configuration shown in Fig. 1-1. In the view of coastal engineering, the clarification of the wave damping mechanism is important while no research has conducted on the particular case. It is believed that wave deformations and certain amounts of energy dissipation occur during the travel of waves on the reef. This paper presents the derivations and the numerical solutions of the integral equations where the conditions for continuity of mass and energy flux on the boundary lines dotted at x= ± sh/2 in Fig. 1-1 are considered. The coefficients of wave reflection and transmission for the particular reef are obtained from the numerical computations. Also, the experiments are conducted to evaluate the numerical results and the results are herein discussed comparing with the theoretical ones, which concludes that the theory derived is reasonably appllicable with the condition of h₁>0.3 h.
- 琉球大学理工学部の論文
- 1976-09-28
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