Barrier Reef による波の変形
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概要
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This paper presents the study on wave damping action at the barrier reef. The theoretical model takes account of the resisting effects on wave motions, which are shown as linear terms, while the non-linear ones such as the effects of vortex and wave breaking are neglected herein for a simplicity. The resisting effects are expressed as the linear combinations of the resisting coefficient (μ) and the fluid particle velocities in horizontal and vertical components (u and w), take the forms as μu and μw. The derivations of the integral eguations for the model and the numerical solutions from the equations are presented, which are the theoretical coefficients of wave reflection and transmission. The results are compared with the experimental values, and the correlations are obtained with in certain limits. From the comparisons, it will be concluded that the theory, derived herein, is applicable when s and p₁ are larger than 0.8 and 0.3, respectively. Physically, the values seem to be limits where for only linear effects are considered, while nonlinear effects will be influential under these values of s and q₁.
- 琉球大学理工学部の論文
- 1976-09-28
琉球大学理工学部 | 論文
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