湾状リーフ海岸上の波浪・平均水位・サーフビート　－その工学的制御方法（防災対策）－

概要

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Generally, it has been believed that the water in an inner region of a bay is calm because the incoming wave heights are decreased by wave diffraction and/or wave refraction (scasttering effect) as they propagate to the shore in thebay. However, many coastal structures in the bays with reef have been damaged by stormy waves. This fact suggests that a certain hydraulic/wave phenomenon peculiar to the bay with reef has been occured on the reef in the nearshore zone. In this study, the authors have disclosed the existence of "Bore-like surf beat"on the reef coast which plays an important role concerning with upper mentioned problems, and it is shown experimentally that the surf beat has a increasing effects of the wave height according as the width of the bay decrease, such as the transformations of Tsunami.
琉球大学工学部の論文