斜面上における砕波の流速に関する実験的研究

概要

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　A study of the characteristical behavior of a breaking wave on a sloping beach is very significant to solve the problems of sand-drift on the beach. In previous papers，the study to estimate the height of a wave at its breaking point was mainly performed theoretically or experimentally. In this paper， the velocity component， caused by the propagation of a breaking wave，is treated，and for this experiment a small amplitude wave is used. First，dimensionless variables u^-√<ghσ>　derived from the solitary wave theories are compared with the experimental values　of the bottom velocity at its breaking point，and relations between u^-√<ghσ>　and wave steepness H/L　are　closely examined. Secondly，an attempt is approximately made to apply the bore theory （by Keller and Whitham）to the treatment of transformation of the height of a breaking wave and of the particle velocity in surf region. As　a　result，it　is　found　that　near　the　breaking　point，experimental　value u^-√<ghσ> comparatively agrees with the theoretical curve
北見工業大学の論文