衣紋にみる高倉家 : 大炊御門家から高倉家へ
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概要
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The style of costume worn by Japanese imperial and aristocratic families at official ceremonies changed during the twelfth century to the stiff kowa 強 fashion, which made it difficult for its wearers to dress by themselves, giving rise to a new occupation of professional "outfitters" practicing the art of emon 衣紋. In the present article, the author takes up one of these outfitters, the Takakura 高倉 family, who replaced the Oimikado 大炊御門 family of outfitters (but exactly when this change occurred has yet to be clarified) and who has yet to be discussed in the research on Japanese family organization (ie 家). Focussing on ceremonies for enthronement, the offering of first fruits (daijo-e 大嘗会) and male initiation (gempuku 元服), the author introduces some newly discovered source materials that enables her to pinpoint exactly when the Takakuras replaced the Qimikados and discuss the way of life of the Takakuras during the medieval period. The first section takes up Takakura Nagatsune 永経, who attired the Jimyoin 持明院 imperial line, and Nagayasu 永康, who attired the Daikaku-ji 大覚寺 imperial line. It is interesting that during the late Kamakura period, the Takakura family split in accordance with the frequent schisms that occurred in the imperial family at that time. Section two investigates the very difficult techniques of agemaki 総角 hairstyling for boys. The art was first possessed by the Tokudai-ji 徳大寺 family, then taken up by the Oimikado family. Then in 1371, the Oimikados taught the art to the Takakuras, when Takakura Nagasue 永季 was temporarily engaged for the agemaki work in preparation for the initiation ceremony of future emperor Go-Enyu. In section three, the author focuses on haku-shozoku 帛装束, the white garment worn at the first fruits and other ceremonies, and shows that it was at the time of Go-Komatsu's enthronement in 1382 that the Takakuras replaced the Oimikados, a change made possible by shogun Ashikaga Yoshimitsu 足利義満. That is to say, from the Kamakura period, the Takakuras had always functioned as assistants or representatives of the Oimikado family, never being allowed to appear at major ceremonies. It was only due to the wishes of Yoshimitsu that the Takakuras were first able appear in the limelight by replacing the Oimikados in the emon preparation for major ceremonies. What remains to be studied is the role of the Takakura family in outfitting aristocrats and warriors for ceremonies that continued during the transition from medieval time to late premodern times and the Edo period.
- 財団法人史学会の論文
- 2002-02-20
財団法人史学会 | 論文
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